Plain weave can be the foundation for additions to the weaving web. Sort of like the harness loom weaver’s simple inlay technique, but instead of laying it into an open shed, we have to use a needle or some implement to get the extra thread into the shed. In the end, the finished appearance is the same and our method isn’t too difficult.

Begin with a lightweight yarn (examples are DMC Senso) and a bulkier inlay yarn or fiber. It works best to have something sort of smooth and simple for the background and something lofty to make your design. You want the inlay material to spill out around the plain web. Weave a few rows as usual. If the inlay material can be threaded onto a needle, do so, and then pass it between the first and third warp layers. Then continue to weave with your base thread, one or two or however many rows you want, until you’re ready for another line of inlay yarn. Be sure to weave EVERY row, just as if you were making a plain weave piece. The inlay material doesn’t take the place of any weft. It’s supplementary. If it’s very lofty, you may need to pack it down with a fork.

If you can’t thread the inlay material onto a needle, you’ll have to finesse it between the warp layers with your fingers or some other implement, like a crochet hook.

Inlay material can be short, held by only a couple of warp threads, or it can span the whole width of the piece. You could cut each row or continue up the warp with a continuous piece. Make a curved or geometric design. And you may very well prefer the back to the front, as I did the two samples on the right.

Inlay stuff doesn’t have to be thread or fabric. Try wire, feathers, paper, toothpicks, dried grass and so forth.